
On the opposite end of the spectrum are folks who build earth-bermed or underground homes. These buildings often have a soil depth of 20-24" on the roof and are blended into the surrounding landscape. That much soil presents a real professional-grade engineering challenge to support! When the soil gets wet and then it snows, think 500lbs per square foot live load. Pre-stressed concrete panels and beams or steel girders are really the only materials suitable for this application. Very expensive.
In my particular case; there are a couple things I'm trying to gain from the use of a green roof:
Insulation value. OK, so we can all agree that earth itself is not a great insulator. But it is a great thermal mass and tends to help damp out wild temperature variations even a few inches below the surface. However, to keep the house warm in the winter, a sufficient layer of insulation will need to exist between the home interior and the soil. Additionally, earth roofs retain snow cover. And snow IS a comparatively good insulator. Fluffy dry snow accounts for roughly R1 per inch. So, 18 inches of snow is an additional R18 on the roof when you need it most!
Passive cooling. Soil deep enough to retain some moisture in the summer months can act as a whole-house sized evaporative cooling system. Moderately deep soil also ought to be able to keep the attic area from overheating in the sun - imagine the cool you'd find 8" down in shaded soil on a summer day...

So, my ideal green roof is one with roughly 6-8" of soil supporting a growing matrix of native grasses, wildflowers and other shallow-root plants.
To support this considerable load will definitely take some planning. With responsible spans, I believe a roof substrate of 2x6 tongue-in-groove planking over frequent joists and girts ought to do the trick. On top of this plank surface will sit alternating layers of waterproofing membrane and closed-cell (doesn't absorb water) rigid insulation. Next, a gravel drainage layer allowing water leaving the soil to drain away to the edge of the home to daylight. Next a filtration layer of fiber matting to prevent the soil from homogenizing with the underlying gravel. Lastly, the actual soil layer on top of it all. In my minds eye, I picture all these materials retained on the rooftop using Trex-style decking as batten boards - this material is not prone to rot when in contact with the soil.
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